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Sonya Michelle Sanford

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Cheddar Cheese Coin Crackers

May 9, 2024

I am an unabashed cracker enthusiast, and I am always pleasantly surprised by how simple it can be to make them at home. Cheddar cheese coins (also called cheese pennies) have the addictive savory tanginess of a Cheez-It, with the hardiness of a homemade cracker.

This retro snack is made with just a few simple ingredients like good cheddar cheese, flour, and butter. They’re quick to whip up and store well in an airtight container. Cheese coins are flavorful enough to be served and eaten all on their own, ideally as a light nibble accompanied by a fizzy beverage before dinner. These crackers are extra delightful topped with a fruity fig or plum preserve, or even a slice of cheese on top. What’s not to love about salty, cheesy, crispy crackers?

Notes: 

  1. This recipe works best with hand grated cheese, as opposed to the store-bought pre-shredded variety, which has a powdery coating on the outside.

  2. You can store the cheese coins in an airtight container for up to one week.

Cheddar Cheese Coins
Yield: 48 crackers
Prep time: 10 minutes + 2 hours chill time
Cook time: 12-14 minutes

Ingredients

  • 5 oz (140 g) extra sharp cheddar cheese, grated, about 2 cups

  • ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, very cold

  • 1⅓ cups all-purpose flour 

  • 1 Tbsp cornstarch 

  • 2 tsp dry mustard powder

  • 1 tsp sweet paprika

  • ¼ tsp salt

  • 1 Tbsp apple cider vinegar 

  • 2-3 Tbsp ice cold water

Directions

  1. Start by grating your cheese. Cube your butter very small. 

  2. To the bowl of a food processor add the flour, cornstarch, dry mustard powder, paprika, salt and grated cheese. Pulse 2-3 times to mix.

  3. Add the cubed butter and pulse 5-6 times, or until the mixture forms pea-sized crumbs. 

  4. Add the vinegar and 2 Tbsp water. Pulse until the dough is like the texture of fine crumbly sand and easily holds together when balled up in your hand. If the mixture looks too dry and doesn’t stick together, add one more Tbsp water and pulse a few more times. 

  5. Transfer to a clean surface and form into a ball. Divide the ball into two equal halves, and form each half into a log, about 1½” in diameter, and about 7-8” long. Wrap each log in plastic wrap and chill for at least 2 hours or overnight. 

  6. Preheat the oven to 375°F, arrange the oven racks so there is one on the top third and one on the bottom third of the oven (alternatively, you can bake the crackers in the center of the oven, one baking sheet at a time). 

  7. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Slice the chilled dough into ¼” rounds. Place them on the baking sheets, leaving an inch or two between each coin.  

  8. Place the baking sheets on the top third and lower third of the oven, and bake for 6 minutes. Rotate the baking sheets, and bake for 6-8 more minutes, or until they are just starting to turn golden brown at the edges. If you like them crispier, bake until slightly deeper brown on the edges and on top.

  9. Let the coins completely cool on a baking rack. Once cool, serve or store in an airtight container for up to one week.

In Appetizer, Holiday, Vegetarian Tags crackers, homemade crackers, cheese cracker, cheese coins, cheddar cheese coin crackers, penny crackers
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Asparagus, Gruyere & Swiss Tart

May 2, 2024

This classic Spring tart is flavorful and buttery and is easy to whip up for a brunch spread or Mother’s Day. When possible, I try to use an all-butter puff pastry and fresh local asparagus — you can even often find good quality puff pastry sold by the sheet at your local bakery. The combination of Gruyere and Swiss is rich and nutty, and the whole grain Dijon adds a bright complexity to the flavor. If you’re not a fan of either cheese, you can swap them for a sharp cheddar or aged Gouda. This tart is a crowd-pleaser and is great served alongside a bright and citrusy salad. 

I recently had the pleasure of being back on KATU’s AM NW and you can find a full demo of this recipe here.

Asparagus Gruyere & Swiss Tart
Serves 6-8

Ingredients

  • 1 sheet of puff pastry, defrosted

  • 1 (1 lb/500 g) bunch asparagus

  • 1¼ cups (3 oz / 85 g) shredded Gruyere cheese 

  • 1¼ cups (3 oz / 85 g) shredded Swiss cheese, or substitute with additional Gruyere

  • 2 Tablespoons whole-grain Dijon mustard (optional)

  • Drizzle of olive oil

  • 1 egg, beaten (for egg wash)

  • Flaky salt, as desired

  • Freshly ground pepper, to taste

Directions

  1. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

  2. Depending on the brand of puff pastry you use, your tart might be slightly larger or smaller in size. Gently roll out your puff pastry until it’s roughly 11-13” (28-33 cm) in length, and 6-9” (15-23 cm) wide. Transfer the rectangle onto a parchment-lined baking sheet. 

  3. With the tip of a sharp knife, score a border around the pastry dough, about 1” (2.5 cm) from the edge, forming a rectangular frame.

  4. Using a fork, lightly pierce the pastry evenly across the inside of the rectangle. This will help prevent excessive puffing in the center while allowing the edges to rise evenly.

  5. Trim the tough ends off the asparagus spears to fit them within the inner rectangle of the tart. To do this, gently bend each asparagus spear near its base until it naturally snaps; discard the tough ends or reserve them for making stock if desired.

  6. To assemble the tart: evenly spread 2 tablespoons of the whole grain mustard in the inner rectangle of the tart. Top evenly with shredded cheese. Arrange the asparagus, like straight soldiers, on top of the cheese. Lightly drizzle or brush the asparagus with olive oil. Brush the edges of the tart with beaten egg. Sprinkle the tart with flaky sea salt and freshly ground pepper. 

  7. Bake for 22-25 minutes, or until puffed up and golden brown at the edges and the asparagus spears are tender and cooked through. 

  8. Allow to cool for at least 15 minutes prior to serving. Tart can be served warm or at room temperature. This tart is best served the same day it’s baked, but you can store it in the fridge for up to 3 days. The tart can be reheated at 350°F (175°C) until warmed through. 






In Holiday, Breakfast, Vegetarian, Appetizer, Bread Tags Mother's Day, Tart, Puff Pastry, Asparaugs tart, Asparagus tart, Asparagus gruyere tart, Asparagus cheese tart, Brunch, Lunch
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Feta Phyllo Triangles Drizzled with Honey

February 28, 2023

Tiropitakia, “little cheese pies” in Greek, are feta-filled, phyllo-wrapped bundles. They come in a variety of shapes, and are often formed into triangles. The Greek-speaking Romaniote Jewish community from the Eastern Mediterranean is known for preparing a range of phyllo and cheese-stuffed pastries for holidays and Shabbat. Thankfully, their recipes have been documented in the “Cookbook of the Jews of Greece” by Nicholas Savroulakis, one of my favorite regional Jewish cookbooks.

When they’re formed into triangles, they’re perfect for Purim as they resemble Haman’s triangular hat (or, according to Israelis, his ears) in the same manner as hamantaschen. These feta phyllo bundles benefit from the addition of sweet floral honey, a satisfying contrast to the savory, tangy feta filling, nutty sesame topping and buttery, crackly exterior. 

Feta and Honey Phyllo Triangles
Makes 18 pastries

Ingredients:

  • 8 oz (225 g) feta

  • 1 large egg

  • ¼ cup Greek yogurt or labneh

  • 1 Tbsp chopped fresh mint, plus more for garnish 

  • ½ cup (1 stick) butter, melted or substitute with non-dairy butter or oil

  • 8 oz phyllo, about 18 9x14-inch sheets

  • ¼ cup sesame seeds, or as needed

  • ⅓ cup honey


Directions:

  1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone mat.

  2. In a bowl, combine the feta, egg, yogurt and 1 Tbsp of chopped mint. Set aside your filling.

  3. In a small pot on the stove, or in the microwave, melt the butter.

  4. Unwrap your phyllo. If using large 18”x14” sheets, cut them in half so each sheet is 9”x14.” Take one sheet of phyllo, and orient it vertically, like a sheet of paper onto a clean surface. Working quickly, brush the top of the sheet with the melted butter. As you form the pastries, keep your stack of phyllo covered with a lightly damp cloth so it doesn’t dry out.

  5. Place 1 Tbsp of the feta filling into the bottom center of the sheet, horizontally, leaving about ½ an inch from the bottom. Fold the right side a third over the filling, then fold the opposite left side over the filling, and the phyllo will now be a long strip about 3” wide and 14” long. 

  6. Fold the bottom corner up and over the mixture, forming a triangle and encasing the filling. Continue to fold the triangle upon itself, from side to side, until you’ve used the entire sheet of phyllo. Place the triangle onto the parchment paper and continue the process with the rest of the filling and phyllo.

  7. Brush all of the formed triangles with melted butter, and sprinkle the tops with sesame seeds. (Freeze at this point, if desired.)

  8. Bake for 25-30 minutes, or until deep golden brown (frozen triangles may take slightly longer to bake). While the triangles are baking, heat up the honey in a small saucepan.

  9. Once baked, drizzle the honey over the triangles, and serve warm. If making ahead, wait to drizzle on the honey just before serving. 

In Holiday, Dinner, Breakfast, Appetizer, Vegetarian Tags Purim, Greek Jews, Feta Triangles, Phyllo Triangles, Feta Phyllo Triangles, Feta Filo Triangles, Feta & Honey Phyllo Triangles, Feta & Honey, Jewish food, Holiday Food, Jewish cooking, Shavuot dish
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Everything Bagel Latkes!

December 19, 2022

Latkes for breakfast are one of life’s great joys, and Shannon Sarna had the brilliant idea to take the flavors of a morning everything bagel and turn that into latke form. We collaborated on this recipe for The Nosher, and by the way, her new book Modern Jewish Comfort Food is a must-have!

With these latkes, you get all the same satisfying flavors that you can get at your local bagel shop, but with the added bonus of fried potato. Here, crispy traditional latkes get a boost of flavor with the addition of everything bagel seasoning and fresh garlic, and then are topped with herbaceous lemony cream cheese topping, and a luxurious piece of salmon. These are rich, delicious, and festive. These can be served as a celebratory to start the day, as a passed hors d'oeuvres at a gathering, or even as the main entrée of a Hanukkah meal. Latkes and lox will always be a match made in heaven. 

Everything Bagel Latkes
Serves 4-6

Ingredients:
For the latkes-

  • 3 lbs potatoes, Yukon Gold or Russet

  • 1 small onion, white or yellow

  • 3 large eggs

  • 3 cloves garlic, minced fine

  • ¾ cup potato starch or all purpose flour

  • 2 Tablespoons everything bagel seasoning 

  • 2 tsps kosher salt (1 tsp if your everything Bbagel seasoning includes salt)

For the toppings-

  • 6 oz cream cheese, at room temperature

  • 2 Tablespoons chopped fresh dill

  • 1 Tablespoon chopped fresh chives or scallion

  • 1 Tablespoon lemon juice

  • Thinly sliced smoked salmon (about 4-6 oz) 

  • Everything bagel season, as needed for garnish

Directions:

  1. Peel your potatoes, and keep them in a large bowl of cold water until ready to shred them. Peel the onion and cut it in half.

  2. Using the medium-sized whole on a box grater, or the grating attachment on a food processor, shred the onions and potatoes.

  3. Squeeze out excess moisture from the potatoes using a clean kitchen towel, cheesecloth, or paper towels. Add the strained potatoes and onions back to the large bowl.

  4. Add the eggs, garlic, potato starch, everything bagel seasoning, and salt to the large bowl. Mix until well combined. 

  5. To fry the latkes, fill a large skillet with a ¼” depth of oil. Prepare a sheet pan with a rack or paper towels on top. Heat the oil on medium-high, until a drop of latke mixture sizzles when added. Add about a ¼ cup of latke mixture to the hot oil, press lightly down to form an evenly-thick circular shape. Fry on each side until golden brown, about 2-3 minutes per side. You may have to lower and raise the heat as needed to keep the oil from getting too hot or cold. Once golden brown on both sides, transfer to your lined baking sheet and sprinkle with a little extra salt. 

  6. To make the cream cheese topping: combine the cream cheese, dill, chives, and lemon juice in a small bowl. 

  7. To assemble: top each latke with the cream cheese topping, a small piece of smoked salmon, and a sprinkle of everything bagel seasoning. 

Latke topped with lox
In Appetizer, Breakfast, Dinner, Holiday Tags Latkes, everything bage, Everything bagel, Everything Bagel Latkes, Hanukkah Food, Holiday food, Breakfast food, Breakfast latkes, Latkes and Lox, Jewish food
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Cheese stuffed latkes, cheesy latkes

Cheesy Latkes!

December 17, 2022

In the dark of winter, Hanukkah brings in the light… and the indulgent foods. Stuffing latkes with cheese is unquestionably gilding the lily, but isn’t that what Hanukkah’s all about? These latkes are crispy on the outside and ooey gooey on the inside. 

The flour added to the potato batter helps the latkes hold their shape, as does freezing them for 10-15 minutes before frying. The cream cheese added to the shredded cheese mixture makes stuffing the latkes easier, and also offers a subtle tang that cuts the richness. Like all latkes, these are best eaten straight from the pan (plate optional).

Cheese-Stuffed Latkes/Super Cheesy Latkes
Makes 12-16 latkes, serves 4-6

Prep time: 20 min
Cook time: 30 min
 

Ingredients:
For the latkes:

  • 3 lbs Yukon Gold or russet potatoes

  • 1 small yellow or white onion

  • 3 eggs

  • 1½ cups all-purpose flour

  • 1 tsp kosher salt, plus more as needed 

  • Oil (sunflower, avocado, canola or vegetable), as needed 

For the cheese filling:

  • ½ cup (4 oz) cream cheese, at room temperature  

  • 1 cup shredded cheddar cheese

  • 1 cup shredded Gruyere or Swiss cheese

Directions:

  1. Line a large kitchen bowl with a clean kitchen towel or double-stacked paper towels. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat.

  2. Peel the potatoes and onion. Grate them using a box grater or the shredding attachment on a food processor. Add them to the lined bowl, and then squeeze out the excess liquid using the towel. Discard the liquid, then add the squeezed-out potato and onion back into the bowl. 

  3. Add the eggs, flour, and salt to the potato mixture. Combine until evenly mixed; the potatoes should clump together when you press them into your hand.

  4. Take about 2 Tbsp of the potato mixture and press it into a circle in the palm of your hand. Add 1 heaping tsp of the cheese mixture into the center of the potato mixture. Top with an additional Tbsp of potato mixture, and then form into a round latke shape, cheese encased on both sides by the potato. Place on the lined baking sheet, and continue to form the latkes with the remaining batter and cheese.

  5. Freeze the latkes for 10-15 minutes, but not for much longer. A short freeze will help them hold their shape more easily as you fry them. While the latkes are chilling, prepare for frying.

  6. Add about ¼” oil to a large, heavy-bottomed skillet. Over medium-high heat, heat the oil until very hot – it should sizzle when a small amount of batter is added to the pan. Place a wire rack on a sheet pan, or line a sheet pan with paper towels. 

  7. Add 3-5 latkes to the oil depending on the size of the pan; be careful not to overcrowd the latkes, which will cause them to steam instead of brown. Fry the latkes on each side until golden and crispy, about 3-5 minutes per side. Transfer to the wire rack to allow any excess oil to drain off the latke. Sprinkle with a little extra salt while they’re still hot.

  8. Serve warm with applesauce, sour cream or your desired toppings. 

Latkes
In Holiday, Dinner, Appetizer, Vegetarian Tags Hanukkah, Chanukkah, Hanukkah food, Chanukah food, Latkes, Cheese-stuffed latkes, Cheesy latkes, cheeselatkes, latkes
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Whitefish Salad

Whitefish Salad

April 13, 2022

For the full article and more history on whitefish salad, head over to The Nosher!

There’s nothing wrong with traditional whitefish salad, but I love to add a few extra ingredients to my whitefish salad to brighten up its salty smoky flavors. For one, when I can’t find whole smoked whitefish, I use smoked trout or smoked Sable. Mayonnaise is essential, but I also add sour cream for tangy creamines (you can skip the dairy and substitute it with more mayo if desired). Fresh dill and parsley give the salad lightness, and lemon zest and juice add citrusy acidity and flavor. However you like to make it, you can never go wrong serving whitefish salad at your next holiday spread. 

SMOKED FISH SALAD 

Makes 2 cups/1 pint - Recipe can be doubled or tripled

  • 8 oz. smoked whitefish (or smoked trout or sablefish)

  • ¼ cup mayonnaise, or to taste

  • 2-3 Tbsps sour cream (or additional mayonnaise)

  • 1 Tbsp chopped parsley

  • 1 Tbsps chopped dill

  • 1 tsp lemon juice

  • ½ tsp lemon zest

  • Black pepper, to taste

Start by crumbling the fish off its skin into small pieces. Make sure to remove any bones in the process, especially if using a whole fish. 

To the fish add mayonnaise, sour cream (if using), parsley, dill, lemon juice, lemon zest, and pepper. Taste and adjust to your liking. Salad will keep for up to 1 week refrigerated.

In Appetizer, Dinner, Holiday, Lunch, Salad, Snack Tags whitefish, whitefish salad, jewish food, Jewish deli food, Jewish deli recipes, Smoked fish salad, Trout salad, Smoked sable salad
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Vegan Carrot Lox

December 21, 2021

Carrots make a surprisingly delicious plant-based substitute for traditional lox. By cooking carrots and marinating them in a few simple and flavorful ingredients, they become smoky, salty, and bright with acidity. The combination of liquid smoke and toasted seaweed gives the carrots a transformative smoky seafood flavor. Liquid smoke can be found in most grocery stores and is made from actual wood smoke that is condensed into liquid form (and a little goes a long way). You can substitute liquid smoke with good-quality smoked paprika if desired, or omit the liquid smoke entirely for vegan lox that is less smoky. Carrot lox adds a pop of color to any brunch spread, and they pair perfectly with schmear, cucumber, fresh dill, and all the traditional bagel fixings.

Vegan Carrot Lox

Serves 6-8

Ingredients:

  • 3 large carrots, about 1 lb. 

  • Salt, as needed

  • ¼ cup water

  • ¼ cup soy sauce or tamari

  • 2 Tbsps rice vinegar or white vinegar

  • Juice of ½ a lemon 

  • 1 Tbsp maple syrup or agave

  • 1 tsp dried dill

  • ¾ tsp liquid smoke (or 1 tsp smoked paprika)

  • 1 sheet toasted Nori, or 3-4 pieces of seaweed snacks

Directions:

Bring a pot of water to a boil. Season the water generously with salt. Boil the carrots for 10-15 minutes, or until just tender when pierced with a small knife.

Peel the carrots by rubbing off their peels. Using a mandoline, vegetable peeler, or sharp knife, slice the carrots lengthwise into long strips. 

In a large bowl, combine the water, soy sauce, rice vinegar, lemon juice, maple syrup, dried dill, and liquid smoke. Whisk together, then add the nori. Add the carrot strips to the bowl and toss everything together. Transfer to the refrigerator and marinate for at least 6 hours or overnight; the carrot lox will last up to 1 week in an airtight container in the fridge.

In Appetizer, Breakfast, Dinner, Holiday, Vegan, Vegetarian, Lunch, Salad Tags vegan, vegan lox, carrot lox, jewish food
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matbucha.jpg

Matbucha - Tomato and Pepper Dip

April 28, 2021

Matbucha is a Maghrebi dish made of tomatoes and peppers and means “cooked salad” in Arabic. Jewish immigrants from Morocco, Tunisia, Algeria, and Libya brought matbucha with them to Israel, where it has become a staple of Israeli cuisine. Matbucha is nearly as popular as hummus, and the two are usually located right by each other at the grocery store. 

Matbucha is technically a salad, but it does take serious cooking time. While store-bought versions are convenient, nothing compares to making this recipe at home. First, you roast tomatoes and peppers until they are charred with a smoky flavor, and then you simmer the matbucha for over an hour until it becomes thick and luxurious. The slow simmering process can’t be rushed, as all the flavor comes from the slow-cooked tomatoes. Matbucha varies from kitchen to kitchen, some cooks add onions and/or garlic, and some prefer making it with lots of hot peppers. Adding some fresh chili pepper is traditional; in this recipe, it adds a very mild and subtle heat.

Matbucha has the consistency of a dip or spread, and it is commonly served with first-course salads (salatim) at the start of Middle Eastern and North African meals. Matbucha also makes a delicious topping for grilled meat or fish, as a sandwich spread, and it can even be used as the base for shakshuka. 

Matbucha

Serves 4/ Makes 2-3 cups

Ingredients:

  • 6 large Roma tomatoes

  • 3 medium red bell peppers

  • 1 jalapeno or serrano pepper, seeded and diced fine

  • ½  a medium yellow onion, diced small

  • 2-3 cloves garlic, minced

  • 1 tsp salt, or to taste

  • ¼ cup olive oil

  • 1-2 tsps sugar (optional, or to taste)

 Directions:

Line a baking sheet with foil. Set the oven to broil (alternatively, you can char the peppers over a gas flame or grill).

 Place the tomatoes on one half of the baking sheet, and the peppers on the other half of the same baking sheet. Place the baking sheet on the top rack of the oven, and broil the tomatoes and peppers for 10 minutes, or until blackened on top. Using tongs or a fork, remove the tomatoes. Turn the peppers onto their opposite side and continue to broil them until blackened on both sides, another 8-10 minutes. (Watch your tomatoes and peppers carefully, as some ovens will broil them more quickly than others.)

Once the peppers are blackened on both sides, place them in a bowl and cover it tightly with foil or plastic wrap to let the peppers steam. Prep the other ingredients while the tomatoes and peppers cool. Once cool enough to the touch, peel the peppers and remove their seeds, and peel the tomatoes. Dice the peppers and tomatoes and reserve.

To a medium pot on medium heat, add the olive oil, diced jalapeno, diced onion, and minced garlic. Allow the mixture to cook and soften for 4-5 minutes, until the onion and garlic are aromatic, but before they start turning brown. Add the peeled diced peppers and tomatoes to the mixture, and bring it up to a simmer. Lower the heat, and let the matbucha simmer for 90 minutes, or until most of the liquid has evaporated and the mixture significantly thickens. Stir every 10-15 minutes throughout the cooking time. Matbucha can take more or less time depending on the size of the pot you use, or the amount of liquid in the tomatoes. If the mixture still has a lot of liquid, continue to cook it for up to two hours.

Once cooked, allow the matbucha to fully cool and then refrigerate it. Matbucha can be eaten right after it cools, but it tastes even better the next day. It will last up to one week in the fridge.

matbucha1.jpg
In Appetizer, Dinner, Vegan, Vegetarian Tags matbucha, dips, North African
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nuts.jpg

Sweet and Spiced Roasted Nuts with Turmeric, Ras el Hanout, and Rosemary

February 24, 2021

This simple roasted nut recipe combines earthy turmeric, aromatic gingery Ras el Hanout, piney rosemary, and sweet maple syrup. The mix of spices and aromatics pair perfectly with the rich nuttiness of the almonds and hazelnuts. That said, you can easily customize the nuts or flavors to your liking. If you like it sweeter add more maple, if you like it simpler omit any of the ingredients you don’t enjoy.

This addictive snack mix lasts 7-10 days in an airtight container and makes a great gift.

Sweet and Spice Roasted Nuts with Turmeric, Ras el Hanout and Rosemary

Ingredients:

  • 3 cups raw almonds (or sub cashews, pecans or walnuts)

  • 1 cup raw hazelnuts

  • 1 cup raw pepitas

  • 3 sprigs rosemary, removed from stems

  • 1/3 cup oil (e.g. avocado or sunflower)

  • 1 Tablespoon turmeric

  • 2 teaspoons kosher salt

  • 1 teaspoon Ras el Hanout spice mix

  • 2-3 Tablespoons maple syrup

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Line a baking sheet with a silicone mat or parchment paper.

In a large bowl, combine the almonds, hazelnuts, pepitas, and rosemary. Add the oil and toss everything together.

Add the turmeric, salt, and Ras el Hanout to the coated nut mixture. Toss until everything is combined. Transfer to your lined baking sheet in an even layer. Roast for 10 minutes, remove and drizzle with maple syrup. Mix everything so that the maple syrup evenly coats the nuts.

Roast the nut mixture for another 10 minutes. Allow to fully cool on the sheet pan, then transfer to an airtight container.

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In Appetizer, Vegan, Vegetarian Tags Turmeric, Spiced nuts, Turmeric almonds, Roasted nut mixture, Snacks, Vegan
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justwatermelon.jpg

Pickled Watermelon and other "Zakuski"

July 16, 2018

As written for The Nosher

When you are invited to a Russian person’s home you’ll likely enter the dining area to see a table laden with small plates of food. This type of spread is known as zakuski, which translates to “something to bite after.” Zakuski are essentially snacks that are meant to be eaten while drinking shots of vodka or other alcohol. Popular zakuski include smoked fish, cured meats, salads generously dressed with mayonnaise, blini and caviar, marinated mushrooms, and at least one kind of pickle. Pickled cucumber or cornichons are common, but so are all kinds of other pickled vegetables and fruits.

Russians and Slavic people love pickles. Like many great culinary traditions, the practice of pickling and preserving was born out of necessity. The growing season for fresh fruit and vegetables is relatively short and it became essential to preserve the bounty of fresh produce for the dark cold days of winter. Historically, much of the food preservation used salt to pickle and/or ferment as opposed to using vinegar-based brines; this results in a saltier but less sour pickle. Pickled and fermented produce are also valued for their health benefits. Fermented foods can aid digestion and help with good gut bacteria. This is particularly welcome when you’re eating rich and hearty foods. Most importantly, pickles are flavorful. Pickled foods were particularly popular in Jewish communities in Russia and Eastern European, and often because they added bright acidity and strong flavors to complement staple bland foods like bread and potatoes. In fact, Eastern European Jews introduced dill pickles to America during the late 1800’s and early 1900’s when they began arriving in New York.

The practicality of preserving summer food for the winter is clear, but these pickled fruits are equally refreshing on a hot summer day, preferably eaten with a meal outdoors. I’ve picked three of my favorite zakuski recipes to share: pickled sour cherries, watermelon, and peppers. The sour cherries only show up for a short time every year, and I try to get a big bag whenever I see them available. They are great for pie or for compote, but I love them pickled with a little cardamom. They end up tasting like an elevated maraschino cherry - tart, not too sweet, and complex. They’re great in a cocktail, and just as good as a side to BBQ. Pickled watermelon is a classic in Russia, Ukraine, Georgia and other Soviet countries. Russians typically add garlic, bay, and dill to the brine, which makes the watermelon a savory treat. I love to serve it alongside cured meat or grilled sausages, and it also goes well as a pre-meal bite to eat alongside salty snacks served with ice cold vodka (or beer). The pickled peppers are easily my favorite. My grandmother called them “marinated peppers” and they were a staple dish in her home. She served these peppers at the first course of every dinner, and they always managed to stay on the table throughout the meal. I especially loved to have them along with chicken schnitzel and potatoes.

The techniques described in these recipes can be used on just about any kind of produce. The process for the watermelon quick pickle is simple and would work well for tomatoes, cauliflower, green beans, and more. First you make a brine with a combination of salt, sugar, and any aromatics you’d like. You pour the brine over the fruit or vegetables, and then refrigerate. The pickles are ready the next day, but the longer they sit in the fridge, the deeper the flavors are developed. The tangy vinegar based marinade for the peppers would be excellent with mushrooms. And the sweeter brine for the sour cherries would be great with plums or peaches. These pickles last for months stored in the fridge… if you can go that long without eating all of them or sharing them with friends. There’s nothing quite like arriving at a table with many colorful dishes already laid out waiting for you to dig in. It’s an invitation to enjoy, relax, and eat.

threejarswithpickles2.jpg

Pickled Watermelon

  • 1 3-4 lb. watermelon
  • ½ bunch of dill, stems on
  • 4-5 cloves garlic, peeled
  • 3-4 bay leaves (fresh if available)
  • 2 small Serrano chilies (or 1 jalapeno), halved
  • 6 cups filtered water
  • ¼ cup kosher salt
  • ¼ cup sugar
  • 2 tablespoons white or apple cider vinegar
  • 1 Tablespoon peppercorns

Wash the watermelon very well, and then slice into desired pieces. I like mine about ¾-1” thick, and cut into small triangles with the rind still on.

In a large glass jar or ceramic crock big enough to hold the watermelon slices, place the dill, garlic, a few of the bay leaves, and the Serrano chili in the bottom. Layer the cut watermelon on top. If necessary, divide these ingredients among jars, and place the aromatics on the bottom of each jar.

In a medium pot, combine the water, salt, sugar, vinegar and peppercorns. Bring up to a simmer, and heat until the salt and sugar is just dissolved. Pour the liquid over the watermelon in the jar(s). Top with the remaining bay leaves and a little more dill if desired. If the watermelon is floating above the liquid, you can weigh the fruit down by placing a small plate inside the jar with something heavy on top.

Allow the mixture to fully cool, and then refrigerate. The watermelon is ready to serve after 24 hours, but it is best if you wait 3-4 days before serving.

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Pickled Sour Cherries

  • 4 cups pitted sour cherries
  • ¾ cup white vinegar
  • ½ cup sugar
  • ¼ cup water
  • 1 Tablespoon kosher salt
  • 6-7 cardamom pods, lightly crushed

Place pitted cherries in clean jars.

Combine the vinegar, sugar, water, salt and cardamom in a small pot. Bring to a simmer and heat until the sugar is just fully dissolved. Pour the brine over the cherries. Allow the mixture to fully cool, then securely cover the jars and refrigerate.

They are ready to serve after 24 hours in the fridge, but they will develop deeper flavor the longer they sit.

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Marinated Red Bell Peppers

  • 4 large red, yellow, or orange bell peppers
  • 1 clove of garlic, sliced thin (optional)
  • 1 teaspoon black peppercorns
  • 1½ teaspoons kosher salt
  • ½ teaspoon sugar or honey
  • ½ -¾ cup white vinegar (depending how much you need to cover the peppers)
  • ¼ cup water
  • 3 Tablespoons good extra virgin olive oil

Preheat the oven to 425°F.

Lay your peppers out on a lined sheet tray or baking dish. Place the peppers in the oven for 30-40 minutes, or until blackened, softened, and until the skin gets wrinkly and starts to peel off. It helps to flip the peppers over halfway through the cooking process. You can also do this directly over a gas flame or on a grill, turning the peppers until they are blackened and cooked on all sides.

Once cooked, transfer the peppers to a heatproof bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Allow the peppers to continue to steam and cool for 20-30 minutes.

At this point, the peppers should peel easily. Over a bowl, peel the peppers, and remove the stems and seeds. If any juice escapes while you are peeling the peppers, save the juice. It is gold.

Slice the peeled peppers into strips, about an inch thick, or however you prefer. Add the peppers to the bowl of their reserved juices. Add the sliced garlic if using, peppercorns, salt and sugar to the peppers. (If you do not like strong garlic flavor, omit the garlic entirely.) Mix everything together gently. Cover the peppers with white vinegar and water. Add the olive oil. Let the peppers marinate in the fridge overnight before serving. Peppers last in the fridge for about a week.

In Appetizer, Lunch, Dinner Tags Pickles, Zakuski, Pickled watermelon, Pickled fruit, Pickled sour cherries, marinated red peppers
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Spiced Pomegranate Molasses Wings

February 3, 2018

What do I want in a wing? Something that is crispy with a sauce that packs tons of flavor. Pomegranate molasses is a perfect base for wing sauce. Pomegranate molasses isn’t a molasses at all, it’s actually just pomegranate juice that is reduced until it is thick and syrupy. You can even make it yourself at home, but it is easy to come by at any Middle Eastern or Persian market, as well as online. I’ve even spotted it at Whole Foods. Pomegranate molasses is tangy, a little sweet, and with the dark and shiny sheen of real molasses. It’s a common ingredient in Middleeastern cooking, where it’s added to all kinds of dishes from stews, to dips, to glazes for meats, and more. If you’ve ever read an Yotam Ottolenghi cookbook, than you know it’s also one of his favorite ingredients to add to vegetable dishes.

Years ago, I first got inspired to add pomegranate molasses to wings when I saw Aarti Sequeira make a version of this dish on Aarti Party, her Indian-themed cooking show. Since then I’ve reworked the dish to skew it towards my own preferences, and in a slightly more Middle Eastern direction. These wings get generously marinated in a spice mixture of coriander, cumin, cardamom, allspice, and pepper. The pomegranate molasses sauce gets Sriracha added to it for heat, which is a decidedly un-Middle Eastern ingredient, but a perfect compliment to the dish with its peppery garlicky spiciness. To make cooking for a crowd a little easier, the wings are baked not fried; they still crisp up nicely, but you don’t have to deal with the mess, work, or the extra calories that comes with deep frying. Spiced pomegranate molasses wings have become a staple party food recipe in our house, Superbowl Sunday or otherwise.

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Spiced Pomegranate Molasses Wings

Serves 4-6 (recipe can be doubled and tripled to serve a larger crowd)

For the wings-

  • 2 lbs. chicken wings

  • 2½ teaspoons kosher salt

  • 1 Tablespoon ground coriander

  • 1 Tablespoon ground cumin

  • 1 teaspoon ground black pepper

  • ½ teaspoon ground cardamom

  • ½ teaspoon ground allspice

For the pomegranate molasses sauce-

  • ⅓ cup pomegranate molasses

  • 1 Tablespoon maple syrup or agave syrup, or to taste

  • 2 Tablespoons Sriracha (optional)

  • Salt and pepper, to taste

  • 2 Tablespoons butter or vegan butter

Directions:

1.   Pat the chicken wings dry and place them in a large bowl.

2.   In a small bowl, combine the salt and spices. Add the spices to the chicken, and toss the wings until they are all well coated. Cover and refrigerate the wings for 1 hour to allow the chicken to marinade in the spice mixture.

3.   Preheat the oven to 400°F. Place a rack on a baking sheet and spray or brush the rack with oil. If you don’t have a rack to cook the wings on, you can place them directly on a baking sheet, they will just get slightly less crisped. Add the marinated wings to the baking sheet, leaving ½” of room between each wing.

4.   Bake for 30-40 minutes, or until cooked through with an internal temperature of at least 165°F. Flip the wings once after 15 minutes of cooking time.

5.   While the wings are in the oven, prepare the pomegranate molasses sauce. Add the pomegranate molasses, maple syrup, and Sriracha to a small pot. Heat on medium low, and allow the sauce to simmer for 3-4 minutes, or until slightly thickened. Taste and add salt & pepper as needed, or more Sriracha/maple syrup depending on your preference and the tanginess of the pomegranate molasses.

6.   Once simmered and slightly reduced, remove from the heat and add the butter; this will add a smooth richness to the sauce.

7.   Once the chicken is cooked, transfer it to a large heatproof bowl, pour the warm sauce all over the chicken, and toss until everything is well-coated. Serve hot with your favorite sides or dipping sauces.

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In Appetizer, Holiday Tags wings, pomegranate molasses wings, superbowl, recipes
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Salad Olivier

December 31, 2017

Full article is available via The Nosher

...This salad was first prepared by Lucien Olivier in the 1860’s. Olivier was the French chef of a famous restaurant in Moscow called The Hermitage, hence the very French name for this now popular Russian salad. Also, Russians were obsessed with French culture at that time. Salad Olivier was an immediate hit, and it became the restaurant’s signature dish. Originally, it was made with crayfish, capers, and even grouse. After the revolution, simpler and easier to come by ingredients were more commonly adapted into the recipe. These ingredients are also all conveniently available in the dead of winter.

The popularity of the salad spread beyond Russia to Eastern Europe, the Balkans, and even to Iran and Pakistan. In fact, in our family we call this dish Salad de Boeuf (pronounced as “de beff”), which is what this salad is inexplicably called in Romania and Western Ukraine. Boeuf means “beef” in French, and this salad contains no beef at all. In each geographic locale, the salad might differ slightly. Sometimes the potatoes are mashed instead of cubed, or there’s shredded chicken instead of smoked meat, or sometimes there’s no meat at all, as was the custom in our family. What makes this type of potato salad uniquely a Salad Olivier is the presence of potatoes combined with carrots, peas, pickles, and hard boiled eggs. Everything should be chopped to roughly the same size. The appeal of something seemingly odd and vaguely average is ultimately mysterious, but the combination of hearty firm potatoes, sweet cooked carrots, crisp pickles, earthy peas, and silky eggs in a creamy tangy dressing just works. The ingredients meld all together, each losing its own particular edge to combine to make a complete range of salty, sweet, tangy, satisfying tastes in each bite. I think this salad’s enduring and far-reaching popularity proves that it’s eaten for more than tradition’s sake.

If you’re going to attempt to make this for the first time there are a few things to know. For one, this recipe reflects how my family likes this dish. If you’ve had this before it might be slightly different from what you’re used to. More importantly, the quality of each ingredient matters to the overall success of the dish. I like to use Yukon Gold potatoes because they hold up well and have a pleasant rich sweetness, but you can definitely try it with your favorite potato. Taste the carrots before you cook them; they should be sweet and flavorful, not the dull astringent variety you sometimes end up with. The best pickles for this dish are ones that come from the refrigerator section, that still have a crunch, and are brined in salt with zero vinegar added. They’re also known as “naturally fermented” pickles. The type of mayonnaise you use is also key, and I swear by Hellmann's/Best Foods brand mayo.

Salad Olivier

Serves 6-8

Ingredients:

  • 1.5 lbs Yukon Gold potatoes, about 4-5 medium
  • 3 large carrots
  • 4 large eggs
  • 3 large dill pickles, or to taste (use naturally fermented/brined pickles)
  • 1 cup frozen peas, thawed (you can substitute with fresh cooked peas or even canned)

For the dressing-

  • 1 cup good quality mayonnaise
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • Juice of ½ a lemon, or to taste
  • 1 Tablespoon pickle liquid (optional)
  • ¾ Tablespoon kosher salt, or to taste
  • 2 Tablespoons chopped fresh dill (optional)
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Directions:

 Wash the potatoes and carrots well. Add them to a pot, and fill with water. Bring the water to a boil, and boil the potatoes and carrots until easily pierced through with a knife. The carrots will cook faster, about 15-20 minutes. Once they’re tender remove them from the pot and allow the potatoes to finish cooking, about 15-20 minutes more, or 30-35 minutes in total. Be careful not to overcook your potatoes and carrots, you do not want them to end up as mush in the salad. Once cooked, set aside to cool or refrigerate. This step can be up to 2 days in advance.

While the potatoes and carrots are cooking, hard boil your eggs and allow them to cool.

Once cooled, carefully remove the peels from your potatoes. You can either remove or keep the peel on your carrots depending on your preference.

Cube all of the potatoes, carrots, and eggs to the same size. I like a medium-small dice.

Dice the pickles slightly smaller than the other ingredients as they have a stronger flavor.

Add the cubed potatoes, carrots and eggs to a large bowl. Add the pickles and thawed peas to the bowl.

In a separate small bowl, combine all of the ingredients for the dressing and whisk together. Taste and adjust accordingly.

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Add the dressing to the potato mixture, and carefully stir until everything is fully coated in the dressing. Taste and add more salt if desired (every brand of kosher salt differs in salinity). If you want it creamier/tangier, add more mayonnaise or lemon juice. You can also use sour cream or yogurt if desired.

Allow the salad to chill for at least one hour before serving so that the flavors can all come together. This salad can be made up to a day in advance, and stores well for 2 days. You can also make this without the dressing up to 3 days in advance, then add the dressing before serving.

Before serving, transfer the salad to a serving bowl. This salad is known for being creatively decorated and festively garnished with fresh herbs, vegetable roses, etc. You can doll it up in any way you like.

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In Holiday, Dinner, Appetizer, Lunch Tags Salad Olivier, Olivier, Russian cooking, Jewish cooking, salad, potato salad, potato
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Butternut Squash and Caramelized Onion Burekas

November 20, 2017

This is a seasonal twist on classic burekas that I wrote up for alma. (check out their site for the full article). The caramelized onions are the key ingredient in this dish; they always take longer than you think to caramelize, but the resulting flavor is worth the work. This makes a great side, appetizer, or snack during the holidays. 

Butternut Squash and Caramelized Onion Burekas

Makes 24 burekas

INGREDIENTS

  • 2 sheets puff pastry (10” x 15”), defrosted in the refrigerator overnight
  • 1½ lbs. butternut squash (1 large squash), halved lengthwise and seeds removed
  • 1 large yellow onion, medium diced
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil or butter
  • 1 big fat clove of garlic or 2 medium-sized, minced fine
  • 1 teaspoon ground coriander
  • 2-3 sprigs thyme, leaves removed from stems
  • Pinch of cayenne pepper
  • Salt and pepper, to taste
  • 1 large egg yolk
  • Black and/or white sesame seeds, to garnish

DIRECTIONS

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

Drizzle the halved butternut squash with oil, then place it cut-side down on a sheet pan. You don’t need to peel the squash. Roast until the squash is fully cooked and tender, about 35-45 minutes.

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While the squash is baking, caramelize your onion by putting a few tablespoons of butter with a drizzle of olive oil in a sauté pan over medium low heat. If keeping the dish non-dairy, use just olive oil. Add the diced onion to the pan, and sauté over low or medium low heat until starting to soften, about 5 minutes. Season with a generous pinch of salt and then continue to let the onion cook and caramelize, stirring occasionally so the onion doesn’t burn; make sure to keep the heat fairly low. This is where patience comes in, beautiful caramelized onions can take 30-45 minutes to make. You want your onions golden and sweet, you don’t need to caramelize them until they’re a deep brown. This is a good tutorial if you need it.

Add the minced garlic to the caramelized onions, and sauté for another 2-3 minutes or until the garlic is fragrant but not at all browned. Turn off the heat.

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Once the squash is cooked and slightly cooled, scoop the inside of the squash into a bowl and discard the peel. Add the caramelized onion to the squash. Mix together. The mixture should be soft and not too lumpy.

Mix in the ground coriander, thyme, and cayenne. Taste, and then season with salt and pepper as desired. Allow the squash mixture to cool before assembling the burekas. You can make this filling up to two days in advance and store in the fridge.

To assemble the burekas: roll out a sheet of puff pastry until rectangular and just slightly thinner than when it comes out of the package. Divide the dough into 12 squares: cut the dough in half widthwise, and then cut each half into half again. Next, cut the dough into thirds lengthwise. Put a spoonful of the filling into each square. Fold over the dough to form a triangle shape, and press the edges together. There’s no need to crimp or press too hard, the filling will stay put, and you want to ensure there are layers of flaky pastry.

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Transfer the formed triangular burekas onto a baking sheet, place each bureka about an inch apart, 12 will fit on each baking sheet. At this point, you can freeze the burekas and reserve them for when you’re ready to bake.

Before baking, combine the large egg yolk with a small splash of water. Beat well. Brush the tops of the burekas with the egg wash. Sprinkle with sesame seeds.

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Bake for 20-25 minutes, or until golden brown and flaky. Transfer to a wire baking rack, and allow to cool for at least 10 minutes before serving. Burekas are best served warm or at room temperature.

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In Holiday, Dinner, Lunch, Appetizer Tags jewish food, kosher, burekas, squash burekas, caramelized onion, appetizer, holiday food, thanksgiving, thanksgiving food, jewish thanksgiving, pastry, homemade, baked goods
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Recipes for Tu B'av - for .alma magazine

August 3, 2017

My article with recipes for Tu B'av (the Jewish Day of Love) is up on .alma right now!

Below is the dish that I can't stop eating right now. It's more of a recommendation than a recipe - which is my favorite kind of dish to make. And is there anything better than tomatoes in August? They help me get through the dog days of summer here in Los Angeles. You need so little to make them good. And in my humble opinion, beautiful sweet tomatoes, heavily salted, on crisp good bread with excellent butter is incredibly romantic. Enjoy!

Tomato Thyme Toasts

Serves 8-10

  • Baguette or small loaf of good crusty bread, cut into ¾” slices
  • 2 lbs. of your favorite tomatoes
  • 6-7 fresh thyme sprigs, leaves removed from stem
  • Butter (splurge on some good stuff)
  • Maldon salt or kosher salt, to taste
  • Good extra virgin olive oil, to taste

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

Slice the tomatoes into rounds, just under ½” thick. Lightly salt the tomato slices. The salt will start to soften the tomatoes and season them all the way through.

Place the bread slices on a baking sheet. Drizzle lightly with olive oil. Bake the bread for 6-8 minutes, or until just toasted and beginning to brown on the edges. Once the bread is toasted, spread butter onto each piece. This dish is all about layering of fats and salt with the tomatoes.

Top the toasts with the tomato slices. Top the tomato slices with thyme leaves. Drizzle with a little more olive oil (for a little more oomph). Sprinkle Maldon salt over everything – this will add a nice salty crunch.

You can bake the toasts ahead of time and assemble them with tomatoes when you’re ready to serve, the bread doesn’t have to be hot, and the tomatoes will mellow out the bread’s crunch.

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In Lunch, Holiday, Appetizer Tags jewish holiday, jewish food, kosher, tu b'av, holiday, holiday food, romantic food, tomato toast
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Preserved Lemons

April 27, 2017

Citrus season in California always seems never ending to me. In a good way. But there is a season, and that season peaks in winter, and spills into spring. The Meyer lemons are still around, but they're definitely on their way out. Before they go, I like to preserve a few jars.

Preserved lemons are some of the easiest of preserved foods to make. They involve little other than lemons, salt, and sanitized mason jars (just boil the jars totally submerged in water, lids off, for 10-12 minutes). You can flavor them with whatever spices you like - although I'm partial to the combination of black pepper, bay, and cinnamon. A friend gifted me a jar of lemons she preserved with fennel seed and pink pepper corn, which was lovely.

And then what do you do with them?

They're pungent, and borderline astringent. They're salty, acidic, and flavor-packed. A little goes a long way. But that little bitt adds notes of complexity. It makes you go: "what's in this?" It both highlights the essence of a lemon, and takes lemons to another otherworldly flavor.

I like to use them in homemade hummus (a la Joan Nathan's recipe in her new cookbook). They're beautiful in chicken dishes, and in tagine (they are a common North African ingredient). I also like to make a simple dip with thick plain yogurt, chopped fresh mint, and super finely chopped preserved lemon. 

This recipe works for any lemon, but lemons that are thin-skinned, like Meyer's, seem to work best. 

Preserved Lemons

Makes 1 pint jar

  • 5-6 lemons, depending on their size
  • Kosher salt, as needed
  • 3-4 fresh bay leaves
  • 1 cinnamon stick
  • 1 tablespoon black or pink peppercorns
  • Lemon juice, as needed
  • 1 pint mason jar, sterilized

Quarter each lemon by slicing the top down within half an inch of the bottom, leaving them connected. Pack salt into the lemon then press it back into its original shape.

Fill the bottom of the mason jar with a layer of salt. Layer the salted lemons into the bottom of the jar. Top each layer with more salt, and squeeze lemon juice over each layer as well. Top each layer with bay leaf and peppercorn, and stick the cinnamon stick into the jar as you layer. Pack all of the lemons in tight and make sure everything is covered with a layer of salt and lemon juice.

Place the jar on your kitchen counter or in a pantry and shake the jar once a day for 30 days. After 30 days, the lemons are ready for use. Once opened, I prefer to keep my lemons in the fridge. They’ll keep for up to 1 year.

Before using the lemons, rinse each piece as needed to remove the excess salt.

 

 

In Lunch, Dinner, Appetizer, Vegan, Vegetarian Tags preserved lemons, lemons, meyer lemons, preservation, snack, dinner, lunch, citrus, california
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Beet Cured Gravlax

February 13, 2017

Making homemade gravlax is easy. It's one of those great recipes that impresses guests, looks beautiful, requires zero cooking, and takes minutes to make. Heads up: while this recipe is easy, you need to prepare it 3 days in advance.

The beets create a lovely deep scarlet color on the top layer of the fish, and they add a very subtle sweet, earthy, flavor. 

I love to serve this thinly sliced on a platter with fresh veggies. Bagels and cream cheese are always welcome accompaniments for cured fish. Enjoy!

Beet Cured Gravlax

  • 3 lb center-cut salmon filet, as thick as possible 

  • 2 medium red beets (about 1 pound), peeled and finely grated

  • 1 large bunch fresh dill, roughly chopped

  • Zest of 1 large orange

  • Zest of 2 lemons

  • 1 cup plus 2 Tablespoons kosher salt 

  • ½ cup granulated sugar

  • ¼ cup freshly cracked pepper

Note: Ideally, your filet is at least 1½-2” thick, and evenly thick across the fish. If you have thinner parts of a large filet, they may be too salty once cured, and you can discard those ends. Make sure all of the bones are removed from the salmon. 

Directions:
In a bowl, combine the grated beets with chopped dill, orange zest, lemon zest, salt, sugar, and pepper. 

Place a large piece of plastic wrap big enough to cover the fish on the bottom of a non-metal dish (pyrex or ceramic). Place half of the beet mixture on the bottom. Place the salmon skin-side down, and then rub the rest of the beet mixture on top. Tightly wrap the salmon in the plastic wrap. Place another pan/dish on top of the salmon and weigh it down (something like canned goods or small weights works well).

Cure for 3-4 days, or until the salmon is significantly firmer to the touch. Each day, flip the salmon over and drain any excess liquid. Once fully cured, scrape off the beet mixture and discard. 

Serve thinly sliced with the accompaniments of your choice. Cured salmon will keep wrapped tightly in the fridge for up to one week. 

In Dinner, Holiday, Lunch, Appetizer Tags salmon, lox, gravlax, bagels, kosher
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Photo by Eric Slatkin

Photo by Eric Slatkin

Deep Fried Matzo Balls

April 12, 2016

Why do matzo balls need to be confined to soup? In the spirit of freedom, these matzo balls are let go from their usual broth home, and instead,they're dunked into hot oil, fried until golden, and served with a spicy herbaceous schug dip.


These matzo balls are more hush puppy than airy donut. You have to expect denseness with matzo meal. Once you get over the absence of soup, and the slightly unexpected texture, you find yourself halfway through a second matzo ball... they are delicious and addictive.


Schug is a spicy cilantro and chili sauce, that is commonly found throughout the Middle East. I love the recipe from Zahav, by Michael Solomonov (brought to my attention by friend and collaborator Ellie Bowman), but there are many other recipes out there. You can often even pick up this stuff pre-made at your favorite Israeli restaurant or Middle Eastern market. 

And we've been putting these recipes into motion over at the Assembly Line.

 

Deep Fried Matzo Balls with Yogurt Schug Dip

for the matzo balls-

  • 1 cup matzo meal
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • ½ teaspoon baking soda
  • 1 teaspoon garlic powder
  • 1 teaspoon sweet paprika
  • ½ teaspoon ground cumin
  • 4 large eggs, beaten
  • ¼ cup oil schmaltz or oil (vegetable or safflower)
  • vegetable oil, as needed for frying

for the dip-

  • 1 cup plain Greek yogurt
  • 1-2 tablespoons Schug (spicy herb sauce*)
  • Salt and pepper, to taste

Combine the matzo meal, salt, baking powder, and baking soda together in a large bowl. To the matzo meal mixture add 4 beaten eggs, ¼ cup of oil, and spices. Stir until just combined. Chill the dough for at least 1 hour. Once chilled, formed the dough into even-sized balls.

Fill a Dutch oven or heavy bottomed pot with 3 inches of oil. Heat until hot, about 350°-375°F when tested with a candy thermometer.

Drop the matzo balls into the oil in batches. Be careful not to crowd the pot, add 6-8 matzo balls at a time. Fry until golden brown on all sides.

Once cooked transfer to a sheet pan lined with paper towels and fry the next batch. You can can keep them warm in a warm oven if necessary. The fried matzo balls are best served hot and fresh.

for the dip-

In a bowl, combine the yogurt and schug. Mix until incorporated.

*Schug (also spelled Zhug or Skhug)

Schug is a spicy green sauce that originated in Yemen and is commonly eaten across the Middle East. It can be purchased in some Middle Eastern markets, or from Israeli restaurants. Michael Solomonov has a great recipe in his cookbook, Zahav:

Schug

  • 20 serrano chiles, stems removed
  • 1 cup parsley leaves
  • 1 cup cilantro leaves
  • 4 garlic cloves
  • 1 tablespoon kosher salt
  • 1 tablespoon ground cardamom
  • 1 tablespoons ground coriander
  • 2 tablespoons lemon juice
  • 1 cup canola oil

In a food processor, combine all of the ingredients except the oil. Once processed into a coarse paste, transfer to a bowl. Whisk in the oil. The sauce will appear chunky, not smooth. Store in a container in the fridge for up to 1 month.

In Holiday, Appetizer Tags Passover, Matzo Balls, Fried Matzo Balls, Pesach, Chag, appetizer, matzah, matzo
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Savory Hamantaschen - Leek, Fig and Cambozola Cheese

March 20, 2016

Hamantaschen. Triangular. Filled with stuff. Made for Purim. Meant to resemble Book of Esther’s Haman. Also maybe meant to resemble aforementioned defeated enemy’s ears (in Israel Hamantaschen are called “Oznei Haman” - translation from Hebrew: Haman’s ears). Whatever they are, they are defined by their shape. There are endless variations on their dough, their size, their flavors, and their fillings.

This year, like many other years, I continue to explore the possibilities of what Hamantaschen can be. I experiment with the dough. Egg or no egg? Butter or margarine? Sweet or savory? Traditional fillings or crazy fillings? I'm still seeking my perfect version of a sweet, not-too floury dough , but I am increasingly happy to eat a pastry that is a little more savory. While it has a note of sweetness, this hamantaschen is more appetizer than dessert. The dough is the same used in flaky pie dough or crostatas, the filing has leeks, fig preserves and Cambazola cheese. The result is salty, sweet, and rich.

As a cautionary note, the impulse may be to fill these generously with your filling; exert restraint, it will seem like too little but any more will cause the cookie to overflow or taste too filling-heavy. Another cautionary note, make sure to really pinch shut the edges of each hamantaschen. These tricky guys like to unravel in the oven any chance they get.

Savory Leek, Fig, and Cambozola Hamantaschen

Makes approximately 20

for the dough-

  • 2½ cups all purpose flour

  • 2 tablespoons sugar

  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt

  • 1 cup unsalted butter (2 sticks), cold

  • 2 teaspoons apple cider vinegar, cold

  • 6-8 tablespoons ice cold water

  • 1 egg, beaten for the egg wash

  • freshly ground black pepper, to taste

for the filling-

  • 2 large leeks, diced

  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter

  • ½ teaspoon kosher salt

  • ¼-½ teaspoon fig preserves per hamantaschen

  • ½ teaspoon Cambozola or creamy blue cheese per hamantaschen

for the dough-

In a food processor, add the flour, sugar and salt. Pulse a few times. Add the cold cubed butter. Pulse until the mixture forms pea-sized crumbs of butter and flour. (If doing by hand, using a pastry cutter combine the dry ingredients with the butter until pea-sized balls form).

To the food processor add the apple cider vinegar, and the ice water a few tablespoons at a time. Pulse until the mixture comes together in a ball. If the dough doesn’t stick together easily between your fingers, add another tablespoon of water. When it is done, the dough will be slightly crumbly but will easily form into a ball. Form the finished dough into a flattened disc, wrap in plastic and refrigerated for 2-3 hours or overnight.

for the filling-

Clean and dice the leeks. To a skillet over medium low heat, add the butter. Add the leeks to the pan and season them with salt. Sauté until the leeks are soft and starting to caramelize (turning golden but not crispy and browned), about 10-15 minutes

to assemble your hamantaschen-

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Flour your surface and rolling pin lightly. Roll out the dough until about ¼-inch thick. Using a 3-inch biscuit, cookie cutter, or even a drinking glass, cut out rounds from the dough. Fill each round with ½ a teaspoon of the leek mixture, ½ a teaspoon of fig preserves, and ½ a teaspoon of cambozola blue cheese. Fold over one third of the round onto the filling, fold over a second third, and fold over the last third. With each third, gently pinch and seal the edges of the dough firmly together, forming a well-secured triangle-shaped pastry. Transfer the hamantaschen onto the parchment-lined baking sheet. Make sure there is at least an inch between each pastry. You can re-roll the remaining dough and form more hamantaschen.

In a small dish, beat an egg. With a pastry brush, brush the top of the dough with the egg wash. Top with freshly ground black pepper if desired.

Bake the hamantaschen for 12-14 minutes, or until golden brown.

Once baked, transfer to a rack to fully cool. Serve at room temperature. The hamantaschen can be stored in an air-tight container for several days, if they last that long.

In Appetizer, Holiday Tags Hamantashen, hamantaschen, purim, dessert, savory, savory pastry, vegetarian, leek, fig, cambozola, blue cheese
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Daikon and Potato Latke with Ponzu Dipping Sauce

December 8, 2015

My love of Japanese food led me to reconsider the traditional Hanukkah potato latke served with applesauce and sour cream. Don’t get me wrong, classic latkes are delicious, but sometimes I love a little variety on my holiday table. Traditional Japanese tempura is often served with citrusy Ponzu sauce and finely grated Daikon radish. The salty tangy Ponzu, accompanied with the fresh cool Daikon are as welcome to latkes as they are to lightly fried vegetables and fish. Adding Daikon to the batter as well makes these latkes a touch sweeter and lighter than their all-potato counterparts. Flavorful sharp scallion garnish the latkes and bring a touch of brightness to the final dish. 

The recipe can be halved, but you may want to even double it. These latkes will go fast!

Daikon and Potato Latkes with Ponzu Dipping Sauce

Makes 24-27 Latkes, Serves 8-10 (recipe can be easily halved or doubled)

for the latkes-

  • 1½ lbs. (680 grams)  Russet potatoes, about 3-4 medium sized
  • 1½  lbs. Daikon radish (680 grams)
  • 1 large yellow or white onion
  • 3 medium scallions, sliced fine
  • 2 large eggs, beaten
  • ¼ cup all purpose flour (can be substituted with all purpose gluten free flour)
  • 1½ teaspoons kosher salt
  • peanut or vegetable oil, as needed

for the Ponzu sauce-

  • ½ cup light soy sauce
  • juice of 1 large orange, about ½ a cup
  • juice of 1 lemon, about ¼ cup
  • 3 tablespoons mirin
  • ¼ teaspoon red pepper flake, or to taste

for garnish-

  • ½ lb. (230 grams) Daikon radish, peeled and finely grated
  • sliced scallion, to taste

for the Ponzu sauce-

Start by making the Ponzu sauce. Add the soy sauce into a medium sized bowl. Juice the lemon and orange through a strainer over the bowl of soy sauce. Add the mirin and pepper flake, whisk until combined. Set aside and reserve.

Ponzu sauce can be made ahead and will keep up to 1 week in the fridge.

for the latkes-

Preheat the oven to 325°F/165°C.

Peel and grate the potatoes, Daikon, and onion into a large bowl. Using a clean dish towel, squeeze the moisture out of the combined potatoes, Daikon and onion. This step ensures a crispy latke!

To a large bowl, add the potatoes, Daikon and onion. Add the sliced scallion, beaten eggs, flour and salt to the bowl. Mix until just combined.

Line a sheet pan with paper towels.

Add about ⅛-¼ inch of oil to a large heavy-bottomed skillet, cast iron is ideal. Over medium high heat, allow the oil to get hot. Test the oil with a small piece of potato. If it immediately starts to sizzle and bubble the oil is ready. Form the latkes into small thin patties. I make mine to fit the palm of my hand, but these can be as wide or small as you prefer.

Carefully add the latkes to the hot oil. Brown on one side for 2-3 minutes, flip and brown for another 2-3 minutes. Occasionally, rotate the pan or adjust the heat to ensure even browning and cooking. Like pancakes, the first batch is usually the worst, so don’t get discouraged. When browned and crispy on each side transfer the cooked latkes to the lined sheet pan and allow to rest.

Fry the latkes in batches, be careful not to crowd the pan. Add more oil as necessary to maintain a constant level. Adding more oil will drop the temperature, so adjust the heat as necessary.

Keep the latkes warm in the oven until ready to serve (remove paper towels from sheet pan). Serve warm and fresh!

for the garnish-

Using a microplane or the small size on a box grater, grate the Daikon radish. Thinly slice the scallion.

to serve-

Top each latke with the grated Daikon radish and sliced scallion. Serve alongside the Ponzu dipping sauce.

In Vegetarian, Dinner, Lunch, Appetizer Tags Latke, Jewish food, Japanese, Ponzu, Dipping Sauce, Vegetarian, Hanukkah, Chanukkah, Holiday fodo
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Mushroom and Goat Cheese Tart

November 23, 2015

Whether you're looking to make a substantial vegetarian dish for your Thanksgiving table, or whether you just love making savory tarts any time of year, this recipe is super easy, delicious, and endlessly modifiable.

Yes, it uses store bought puff pastry. In terms of pre-made things, puff pastry and phyllo dough are two of things I prefer to buy already made. They're complicated and time consuming pastry to make at home, and there are excellent versions of both at the market.

In the picture above I made the tart without egg and creme fraiche/sour cream. The egg and cream will bind the mushrooms a little better, but frankly, I didn't mind it with the mushrooms coming apart a bit. It tasted more mushroomy. If you do use the egg binder, then make sure you're mixture isn't too wet or your tart will get soggy.

If you're not a mushroom fan, you can take the same principles for making this tart, and make it with a combination of any other kind of filling: roasted squash and fennel, sautéed zucchini pepper and feta, potato leek... you get the idea. Basically, you want the filling to be mostly or partially cooked, so that you're really just putting the tart in the oven for the pastry's sake.

You can check out a video of this recipe on our Thanksgiving Pies series over at The Assembly Line . You can also follow us on Instagram or Facebook for weekly recipes and videos.

Mushroom Goat Cheese Tart

Makes one tart, serves 6-8

  • 2 tablespoons butter
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 2 shallots, sliced thin
  • 1 lb. mushrooms, sliced thin (crimini, oyster, hen of the woods, chanterelles or
  • whatever is available)
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced fine
  • splash of sherry vinegar
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • freshly ground pepper
  • ¼ cup sour cream (or creme fraiche)
  • 1 medium egg
  • ⅓ cup goat cheese, crumbled (or to taste)
  • 2 sprigs thyme, leaves removed from stem
  • 1 sheet puff pastry, thawed and cold
  • chopped chives, for garnish

Preheat oven to 400°F.

In a large skillet, add the butter and olive oil. Add the sliced shallots to the butter and oil. Stir and let the shallots heat up for 2 minutes, until just fragrant and slightly softened. Add the mushrooms to the shallots, and cook until the mushrooms are softened and the moisture has evaporated, about 5-6 minutes. Add the garlic and sherry vinegar to the pan and sauté for an additional 1-2 minutes. Season generously with salt and pepper. Transfer the mixture to a bowl, and allow the mushrooms to fully cool.

In a small bowl combine the sour cream and egg until the egg is fully incorporated. Add the sour cream mixture to the cooled mushroom mixture in the bowl, stir until fully combined.

Roll out your puff pastry so that it is larger in size than a large dinner plate. Using the dinner plate upside down as a stencil, cut a circle out of the puff pastry. Using a smaller salad plate, gently score an inner circle inside of the larger puff pastry circle. Using a fork, gently poke the inner circle of the puff pastry.

To assemble the tart- Add the mushroom mixture to the inner circle of pastry. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the mushrooms, any extra liquid can remain in the bowl. Top with goat cheese and thyme. Brush the outer edges of the pastry with egg wash.

Bake for 20-25 minutes, or until the pastry is browned and fully cooked.  Once fully cooked, top with fresh chives. Serve warm or at room temperature.

In Dinner, Lunch, Vegetatian, Appetizer Tags Mushroom, vegetarian, vegetables, tart, pastry, savory, goatcheese, dinner, thanksgiving, side
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